Application for Grant Aid
Submitted on: 28 Nov 2019Expedition details (GPF2020a-002)
Expedition Name (& Club): Puncak Jaya 2020: The Gates of Hell Expedition (RRCPC, OUCC, UBSS, CUCC, BEC)
Destination country: Indonesia
Region: West Papua (Puncak Jaya)
Region: West Papua (Puncak Jaya)
Lat: -4.0013 Long: 137.5598 Elevation: 4600 m
MEF funding: Applying for MEF funding
MEF funding: Applying for MEF funding
Leader: Dr. Fleur Loveridge
Total cavers: 12
Cavers ≤25 yrs old: 2Cavers 25-35 yrs old: 3
Cavers ≤25 yrs old: 2Cavers 25-35 yrs old: 3
UK/nonUK cavers: 11/1
Eligible for grant aid: 11
Alex Pitcher nominations: 1
Eligible for grant aid: 11
Alex Pitcher nominations: 1
Expedition dates: 22nd Aug 2020 - 25th Sep 2020
Expedition duration (days): 35
Field days: 300 Travel days: 120
Expedition duration (days): 35
Field days: 300 Travel days: 120
Brief Expedition objectives:
List a short summary of the main Expedition objectives.
This ambitious expedition will explore perhaps the last great mountain range on Earth yet to be visited by cavers. Our goal is to visit the high limestone plateau around Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid, 4884 m), the highest mountain in Oceania, located in Indonesian West Papua. This very karstic limestone plateau extends for 70 miles at elevations of 3,500 to 4,800 meters. We will find and explore high-altitude caves in a location whose limestone thickness may exceed that of the world’s deepest cave. The expedition will focus on an area between Puncak Jaya and the village of Ilaga. It lies on the established route followed by climbers from Ilaga to Puncak Jaya, which thus reduces risks associated with access and logistics. We are partnered by Werner Weiglein who has followed this route >20 times, and photographed major cave entrances along it. He has developed strong links with village chiefs in Illaga that are essential for permissions.How can the GPF support your Expedition?:
Please explain the aspects of the trip which make it eligible for Ghar Parau funding.
This will be an extremely ambitious, but also unusually expensive caving expedition to a very remote location. Major travel costs include chartering a Cessna plane that is the only way to reach Illaga, and (funds permitting) a helicopter to move heavy caving gear to base camp. Importantly, we need to partner with Dr. Werner Weiglein. He is the only person who can reliably arrange local permissions via the village chief in Illaga, as shown by >20 successful climbing expedition to Puncak Jaya from Illaga, including in recent months. But these crucial local permissions involve employment of local people from Illaga as porters and guides, to ensure our safety. We have previously tried to run a lower cost expedition to Papua in 2018, without such support, but were unable to obtain critical local permissions. We will also fulfill the Ghar Parau ethos by involving Field, who is new to caving expeditions and eligible for an Alex Pitcher award.Detailed description of objectives:
Aims: Our aim is to find and explore unusual (very high-altitude; > 3,500 m) caves, in a location whose limestone thickness exceeds that of the world’s deepest cave. We will focus on an area between Puncak Jaya and the village of Ilaga (Fig. 2), which includes the route followed by climbers to Puncak Jaya. We are partnered by Werner Weiglein who has followed this route ~20 times, and photographed major cave entrances along it (Fig. 1). He has developed strong links with village chiefs in Illaga that are essential for successful caving permissions.
The expedition has the following specific objectives:
1. Exploring caves associated with three identified river sinks (Fig. 3), including the major cave entrance known locally as “The Gates of Hell” (Fig. 1);
2. Identifying sites for future (perhaps much deeper) cave exploration;
3. Detailed mapping of cave passages explored; and
4. Building relationships to help establish a long-term project on the plateau, hence enabling sustainable speleological or other scientific research and exploration.
Description: This expedition will search for previously unknown cave systems in the high limestone plateau around Puncak Jaya (4,884 m). We will focus on the area between Puncak Jaya and village of Illaga (Fig. 2), because it lies on the trekking route for recent ascents of Puncak Jaya led by Dr. Werner Weiglein, who will accompany us. He has developed the critical local contacts for permissions along this route, and photographed large cave entrances into which major rivers flow (Fig. 1). We will fly into Timika, and charter a Cessna to take team members and gear to Illaga. We will obtain a local letter of permission in Illaga, and hire local guides to help with camps. We will walk for 3 days (Fig. 2b) from Illaga (3,000 m) to our main base camp (4,200 m), which will help acclimatise. A helicopter will transport 800 kg of heavy caving gear (ropes, rigging gear etc.) from Timika to base camp. We will initially explore the ‘Gates of Hell’ entrance next to base camp (Fig. 1c,d), followed by other major river sinks nearby (Fig. 3), before setting up satellite camps to explore the wider area (Fig. 2b).
Satellite images will identify major river sinks or resurgences (Fig. 3), whilst smaller entrances will be found via systematic searches on the ground and liaison with our local guides and porters. All entrances will be logged via GPS, and combined with surface geomorphology features in a GIS project. We will survey caves to BCA Grade 5. The team has surveyed >100 km of caves in this way, in > 50 previous expeditions worldwide. Furthermore, special attention will be paid to documenting features of speleological interest, that could be relevant to future cave science, including:
1. The character of speleothems or cave-sediments that could hold climate records;
2. Cave hydrology;
3. Possible cave life.
This information will also be placed on cave survey base maps for accurate geo-location.
Our schedule is as follows (22nd Aug. to 27th Sept. 2020):
Day 1: Fly to Bali.
Day 2-3: Fly Bali via Jayapura to Timika (Indonesia permits & buy provisions).
Day 4: Load helicopter in Timika, fly with Cessna from Timika to Illaga.
Day 5-6: Arrange permits in Illaga and acclimatise.
Day 7-9: Walk from Illaga to Base Camp, and set up camp; acclimatise.
Days 10-28: Caving and prospecting from base (18 days, includes 4 contingency days).
Day 29-30: Walk to Illaga.
Day 31-32: Cessna from Illaga to Timika.
Day 33: Timika to Bali.
Day 34-35: Bali to UK.
On attached document see:
Figure 1 for: (A & B) Views of the beautiful and remote Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid) mountain range (C & D) The Gates of Hell cave into which a major river sinks.
Figure 2 for: (A) Overview map showing major towns, and peaks in Indonesian Papua. (B) Map of the expedition area that is located ~25-30 km east of Ilaga, with major river sinks and resurgences.
Figure 3 for: Satellite images of major river sinks within the expedition area, located to the east of Ilaga (Figure 2b). Panel A shows the ‘Gates of Hell’ cave entrance, which is also shown in Fig. 1.
Give a more detailed account of the purpose of the trip, including any particular known caves you intend to visit, specific areas where you will explore for new cave, and scientific experiments you will attempt.
Please see attached prospectus for figures, for which figure numbers are included here. They include a base map, satellite images, and photographs of major cave entrances.Aims: Our aim is to find and explore unusual (very high-altitude; > 3,500 m) caves, in a location whose limestone thickness exceeds that of the world’s deepest cave. We will focus on an area between Puncak Jaya and the village of Ilaga (Fig. 2), which includes the route followed by climbers to Puncak Jaya. We are partnered by Werner Weiglein who has followed this route ~20 times, and photographed major cave entrances along it (Fig. 1). He has developed strong links with village chiefs in Illaga that are essential for successful caving permissions.
The expedition has the following specific objectives:
1. Exploring caves associated with three identified river sinks (Fig. 3), including the major cave entrance known locally as “The Gates of Hell” (Fig. 1);
2. Identifying sites for future (perhaps much deeper) cave exploration;
3. Detailed mapping of cave passages explored; and
4. Building relationships to help establish a long-term project on the plateau, hence enabling sustainable speleological or other scientific research and exploration.
Description: This expedition will search for previously unknown cave systems in the high limestone plateau around Puncak Jaya (4,884 m). We will focus on the area between Puncak Jaya and village of Illaga (Fig. 2), because it lies on the trekking route for recent ascents of Puncak Jaya led by Dr. Werner Weiglein, who will accompany us. He has developed the critical local contacts for permissions along this route, and photographed large cave entrances into which major rivers flow (Fig. 1). We will fly into Timika, and charter a Cessna to take team members and gear to Illaga. We will obtain a local letter of permission in Illaga, and hire local guides to help with camps. We will walk for 3 days (Fig. 2b) from Illaga (3,000 m) to our main base camp (4,200 m), which will help acclimatise. A helicopter will transport 800 kg of heavy caving gear (ropes, rigging gear etc.) from Timika to base camp. We will initially explore the ‘Gates of Hell’ entrance next to base camp (Fig. 1c,d), followed by other major river sinks nearby (Fig. 3), before setting up satellite camps to explore the wider area (Fig. 2b).
Satellite images will identify major river sinks or resurgences (Fig. 3), whilst smaller entrances will be found via systematic searches on the ground and liaison with our local guides and porters. All entrances will be logged via GPS, and combined with surface geomorphology features in a GIS project. We will survey caves to BCA Grade 5. The team has surveyed >100 km of caves in this way, in > 50 previous expeditions worldwide. Furthermore, special attention will be paid to documenting features of speleological interest, that could be relevant to future cave science, including:
1. The character of speleothems or cave-sediments that could hold climate records;
2. Cave hydrology;
3. Possible cave life.
This information will also be placed on cave survey base maps for accurate geo-location.
Our schedule is as follows (22nd Aug. to 27th Sept. 2020):
Day 1: Fly to Bali.
Day 2-3: Fly Bali via Jayapura to Timika (Indonesia permits & buy provisions).
Day 4: Load helicopter in Timika, fly with Cessna from Timika to Illaga.
Day 5-6: Arrange permits in Illaga and acclimatise.
Day 7-9: Walk from Illaga to Base Camp, and set up camp; acclimatise.
Days 10-28: Caving and prospecting from base (18 days, includes 4 contingency days).
Day 29-30: Walk to Illaga.
Day 31-32: Cessna from Illaga to Timika.
Day 33: Timika to Bali.
Day 34-35: Bali to UK.
On attached document see:
Figure 1 for: (A & B) Views of the beautiful and remote Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid) mountain range (C & D) The Gates of Hell cave into which a major river sinks.
Figure 2 for: (A) Overview map showing major towns, and peaks in Indonesian Papua. (B) Map of the expedition area that is located ~25-30 km east of Ilaga, with major river sinks and resurgences.
Figure 3 for: Satellite images of major river sinks within the expedition area, located to the east of Ilaga (Figure 2b). Panel A shows the ‘Gates of Hell’ cave entrance, which is also shown in Fig. 1.
Previous work in this area:
Members of this expedition team (Talling, Wright, Klocker, Gregson) previous explored for caves near Wanghete in 2018, at the far western end of the mountain range (Fig. 2a). The 2018 team were taken to entrances, including a spectacular 80m deep shaft above a major river resurgence. But local villagers consistently refused permission to enter the caves. This is why we are partnering up with Werner Weiglein in 2020 at Illaga.
Previous expeditions to West Papua (Irian Jaya) have gone to entirely different areas. They have often focused on the Beliem Valley near Wamena, such as in the spectacular UK Caves of Thunder expeditions and other French, Dutch, and Italian expeditions. Previous UK and Italian expeditions visited the Puncak Trikora area, whilst Italian cavers recently found very large river caves in the dense jungle of the Bird’s Head Peninsula. But there are no previous caving expeditions to the Puncat Jaya (Carstenz Pyramid) plateau.
Publications, Web Sites and Expeditions:
1984 UK reconnaissance expedition – Cave Science 13, 25.
1985 Indonesia Expedition (Wanuga) – Caves and Caving No. 29.
1988 Caves of the Cloud Mountains Expedition – Cave Science 17, 39 (Trikora, Wolo, Illugwa, Pugima, Pauli, Usilimo, Koropun and Lake Gulanggun).
1990 Japanese expedition to Trikora and Illugwa
1990. UK High Trikora expedition – Roo Walters et al. (Aleya, Lake Gulanggun, East Baliem, Wanuga, Wanema) – Caves and Caving 52.
1991 Spanish Expedition to Wolo area
1992: Boothroyd, et al., 1993. Caves of Thunder: Irian Jaya Expedition 1992.
1999 Italian Expedition to Baliem Valley Italians: www.boegan.it/lattivita/estero/nuevo-guinea/1999-irian-jaya/
2000 Italian expedition (Gruppo Speleologico Bergamasco le Nottole) to Puncak Trikora and Baliem Valley: 2000 Italians www.nottole.it/naturali_oltrefrontiera_papua.html
2003, 2005 French expedition to Baliem Valley
2015-17 Italian expeditions to the Bird’s Head Peninsula, and previous expeditions to Seram Island: http://darknessbelow.co.uk/news-exploring-large-river-caves-in-west-papua/
http://www.acheloos.it/
The leader of this expedition Andrea Benassi has been in touch.
We have also talked to Al Warild and Andy Eavis (who had some rather inspiring photos).
Give details of any previous work in this area by your own and other teams. Include references to reports and articles published on the area, and the names of any local cavers or academics with whom you have discussed the Expedition.
Previous work in the area and key publications:Members of this expedition team (Talling, Wright, Klocker, Gregson) previous explored for caves near Wanghete in 2018, at the far western end of the mountain range (Fig. 2a). The 2018 team were taken to entrances, including a spectacular 80m deep shaft above a major river resurgence. But local villagers consistently refused permission to enter the caves. This is why we are partnering up with Werner Weiglein in 2020 at Illaga.
Previous expeditions to West Papua (Irian Jaya) have gone to entirely different areas. They have often focused on the Beliem Valley near Wamena, such as in the spectacular UK Caves of Thunder expeditions and other French, Dutch, and Italian expeditions. Previous UK and Italian expeditions visited the Puncak Trikora area, whilst Italian cavers recently found very large river caves in the dense jungle of the Bird’s Head Peninsula. But there are no previous caving expeditions to the Puncat Jaya (Carstenz Pyramid) plateau.
Publications, Web Sites and Expeditions:
1984 UK reconnaissance expedition – Cave Science 13, 25.
1985 Indonesia Expedition (Wanuga) – Caves and Caving No. 29.
1988 Caves of the Cloud Mountains Expedition – Cave Science 17, 39 (Trikora, Wolo, Illugwa, Pugima, Pauli, Usilimo, Koropun and Lake Gulanggun).
1990 Japanese expedition to Trikora and Illugwa
1990. UK High Trikora expedition – Roo Walters et al. (Aleya, Lake Gulanggun, East Baliem, Wanuga, Wanema) – Caves and Caving 52.
1991 Spanish Expedition to Wolo area
1992: Boothroyd, et al., 1993. Caves of Thunder: Irian Jaya Expedition 1992.
1999 Italian Expedition to Baliem Valley Italians: www.boegan.it/lattivita/estero/nuevo-guinea/1999-irian-jaya/
2000 Italian expedition (Gruppo Speleologico Bergamasco le Nottole) to Puncak Trikora and Baliem Valley: 2000 Italians www.nottole.it/naturali_oltrefrontiera_papua.html
2003, 2005 French expedition to Baliem Valley
2015-17 Italian expeditions to the Bird’s Head Peninsula, and previous expeditions to Seram Island: http://darknessbelow.co.uk/news-exploring-large-river-caves-in-west-papua/
http://www.acheloos.it/
The leader of this expedition Andrea Benassi has been in touch.
We have also talked to Al Warild and Andy Eavis (who had some rather inspiring photos).
Expedition Finances
Travel
Travel plans: |
| # from UK: | 11 | Travel costs breakdown (for personnel leaving from the UK): |
| Total costs from UK: | £25,025 | International flights @ £850 per person. Local flights @ £450 per person. Chartered cesna @ £2300 Helicopter @£6000 Visas @ £50 per person Insurance @ £233 per person (BCA quotation) |
| # from outside UK: | 1 | Travel costs breakdown (for personnel leaving from the UK): |
| Total costs from outside UK: | £2,075 | International flights @ £650 per person Local flights @ 450 per person Share of communal travel costs as above. Visas @ £50 per person Insurance @ £233 per person |
| Travel total: | £27,100 | Travel p.p. from UK: | £2,275 |
| Travel p.p. from outside UK: | £2,075 |
Subsistence
| Total: | £6,120 | Comments: |
| Subsistence p.p.: | £510 | Hotels in Bali, Timika @£160 per person for 4 nights Subsistence 35 days @ £10 per person per day |
Gear
| Total: | £4,500 | Comments: |
| Gear p.p.: | £375 | Rope (~1km) and rigging gear £2000 2 x drills and batteries £1200 Solar charging £250 Dry bags £400 Satellite phone hire £400 Medical kit £250 |
Special 1
| Total: | £21,600 | Comments: |
| Special 1 p.p.: | £1,800 | Access fees to tribal lands, provision of guides, porters and cooks for our base camp @ £800 per day for 24 days. This figure has been provided to us by Werner Weiglein. It is a large sum, but based on our research and the reconnaissance last year, it is the only reliably way to reach the target expedition area and reach there safely. Other contacts have either (i) proved unable to provide access to this area between Illaga and Puncak Jaya, or (ii) have suggested taking all people and equipment |
Special 2
| Total: | £8,400 | Comments: |
| Special 2 p.p.: | £700 | Mountain tents and sleeping bags: (i) hydrophobic down sleeping bags @£450 per person; and (ii) robust mountain tents at £500 per pair. This is not normally the sort of item we would include in a caving expedition budget, given that all members will have existing tents and sleeping bags. However, due to the extreme mountain environment near Puncak Jaya it will be essential to upgrade camping equipment to the level required to camp safely at elevations over 4000m with known poor weather conditio |
| Exped Total: | £67,720 | Exped cost p.p. travelling from UK: | £5,660 |
| Exped cost p.p. travelling from outside UK: | £5,460 | ||
| Mean Exped cost per person: | £5,643 |
Other Funding
| Total: | £0 | Comments: |
| At the date of this application (late November 2019) we have also applied for (or are in the process of applying for) funding from: - Scientific Exploration Society Explorer Award - The Royal Geographical Society - Australian Geographic Society Adventure Award - The North Face Adventure Grant (Australia) We also intend to approach the Captain Scott Society and Transglobe Expedition for funding. At the present time no funding has been awarded as all above applications are still pending. However, |
| Total shortfall: | £67,720 | Mean shortfall per person: | £5,643 |
Referees and Report
Please give the names, addresses and phone numbers of two suitably qualified people whom the Committee can contact. You should ensure that they are aware of the objectives of your trip, and that you have their permission for the Committee to contact them.
Referee 1: Mr. Tony Seddon
Affiliation: NPC
Affiliation: NPC
Reason: He is an exceptionally experienced expedition caver, and is well placed to comment on the expedition team.
Referee 2: Ms. Imogen Furlong
Affiliation: GSG
Affiliation: GSG
Reason: She is an experienced expedition caver, and is well placed to comment on this team.
Expedition report author: Fleur Loveridge